We do. Plus, when Brad returned from France, he pointed out we'd somehow chopped off the first half of his notes on the South America trip. So here's the original, unedited, including some wine suggestions and links to some pretty interesting vineyards.
With the crash of the dollar in Europe, it was time to look at South America’s wines more closely, so a group of 4 from ABC went south in February. We landed in Santiago, Chile minus one bag that was never found and headed south 220 km. to La Fortuna near Sagrada Familia in the Curicó Valley. The winery dates from 1942 but the owner, Luis Daniel Güell, has modern ideas. He and his wife live at the estate, an incredible spread of vineyards and gardens.
A drive back north gave me a chance for a nap. I can sleep anywhere, any time. By the time we found Altaïr, it was dark and we were late, but our hosts waited for us and it was worth the drive. Tucked against the mountains in the upper Cachapoal Valley, this winery is a showpiece that could easily fit in Bordeaux or Napa. They make two wines, Altaïr and Sideral. Altaïr is the top dog, a blend of mostly Cabernet Sauvignon with some Carménère, Syrah and Cabernet Franc. This wine is outstanding and has already received big scores from Wine Advocate and others. Sideral is from the younger vines and includes 20% Merlot and a splash of Sangiovese. Watch for both of these wines.
The next morning our guides, Marcello Zapata and Diego (last name unknown), took us up to the Casablanca Valley, a valley of cool climate opening to the sea. Loma Larga is a relatively new and modern winery producing Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc, Syrah, Malbec and Cabernet Franc. The cool climate at night and warm, dry days give the feel of California’s central coast and the wines ripen with the same balance and intensity.
A short drive over the mountains took us to Tres Palacios, a winery difficult to find but worth the search. Patricio Palacios and his wife hosted us for lunch and a tasting. They specialize in Chardonnay, Carménère and Merlot. This is dry farming in an out-of-the-way place.
Reveille at 06:00. Eat breakfast and get on the bus. We were back in the Casablanca Valley to visit Casas del Bosque, another palace of wine. This is a huge spread like the Ponderosa with dry vineyards and a little bit of everything. The Sauvignon Blanc has a tropical, grapefruit style while the regular Chardonnay showed nice mango fruit and low oak. Their Pinot Noir was solid, in the Santa Barbara mold, and the Syrah was big with a lot of pepper notes. The Cabernet Reserve showed eucalyptus notes and big weight.
After lunch at Casas del Bosque, we spent the rest of the day trekking through the Andes. The mountains are breathtaking but you wouldn’t want to be marooned there. There is little water and practically no vegetation. Dinner was Argentine style barbecue after we reached civilization and we got into Mendoza late and crashed. Mendoza is a very European city in its design with broad boulevards and parks. The dollar is still solid there and we met a lot of Americans.
The next morning we began with Finca López – Noceti, a partnership of Diego López and Mariano Noceti. They converted a dairy farm into vineyards and a winery and are producing solid value wines under the Alción and 1919 labels with Malbec, Syrah and Cabernet standing out.
A last-minute addition to the trip was one of the highlights. Carlos Pulenta has built a winery that rivals the best of Napa or Bordeaux for his Bordeaux style blends, Vistalba Corte A, B and C. The Corte A has received huge reviews with the other two levels not far behind. He also has a line named Tomero from the Uco Valley farther south that showed beautiful fruit and purity.
Vistalba Corte A 2004
9604-05 $55.99
Vistalba Corte B 2004
9605-05 $23.99
Vistalba Corte C 2005
9606-05 $16.99
Another day. We met Mauricio Lorca in the morning and tasted his wines. He has three ranges of wines with Fantasía, the everyday level good values, and Poético, the higher level. The two lines include Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Viognier, Malbec, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon. The star of the whites in Argentina is Torrontés, a variety that often resembles Gewurztraminer from Alsace in its spice and clean fruity flavors but dry finish. He also makes a super blend of Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Petite Verdot named Ópalo with huge guts and a chewy style.
The next stop was at one of the largest sparkling wine facilities in South America, Cumbres Andinas. Much of the sparkling wine made for famous labels is made there. One more stop at Vicente Vargas Videla showed us a range of Malbecs and olive oil that was full bodied and rich. We wrapped up the day with a horseback ride in the mountains. The scenery was spectacular but people with no more padding than I have should stay off horses. There is a piece of my backside still down there.
The next morning we said goodbye to our hosts and moved to Terrazas de los Andes for a tour of the Cheval des Andes vineyard. We rode around the vineyard on horses. Thank God it’s a small vineyard. It’s also very dry and well-drained with very old Malbec vines. French winemaker Nicolas Audebert is turning out some spectacular wines from the vineyard.
Cheval des Andes 2002
1340-05 $69.99
Cheval des Andes 2004 (not yet available, but on its way)
6246-05 $69.99
We tasted the range of wines of Terrazas de los Andes beginning with the Alto level of Cabernet Sauvignon Chardonnay and Malbec, followed by the Reserva level that also included a Torrontés. The top range is Afincado which includes tiny quantities of Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon from old vines. They are big and impressive.
Back on the bus for a long ride into the mountains to ride horses at Los Chulengos ranch. I got a break. The gaucho in charge of the horses took one look at me and gave me the only one with a sheepskin blanket on top of the saddle. Lunch was grilled over a fire and was too good. Fernando Palma and his daughters, Ana and Ines, were charming hosts. It was worth the drive to find Los Chulengos.
The next morning we met Matt Hedges, owner and founder of Vino del Sol, the company that ships a range of top Argentine wines to America. We started at Tempus Alba with the Biondolillo family who are deeply into organic farming. The Preludio range includes Tempranillo, Syrah, Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon made in a rich but pure style with moderate oak. Lunch was on the terrace with live music from a talented young lady who works there and a tango session by a couple who are a doctor and lawyer when not dancing. None of us will forget that stop.
An evening visit to Altocedro was another highlight. Karim Mussi makes two wines from the La Consulta vineyard, Año Cero, a blend and Malbec Reserva, a big but refined wine. We had dinner with the family and I sat next to Karim’s mother who made sure he and I ate our vegetables. She said I remind her of Cary Grant. That’s a first.
Off to visit Melipal the next morning. Melipal and Ikella wines are in stock already at ABC so it was a good thing to see this dry vineyard that produces Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon. The winery is ultramodern and the wines reflect the care of the team and focus on Malbec. The Melipal Malbec is big yet balanced with structure.
Melipal Malbec 2005
6321-05 $18.99
Ikella Malbec
4293-05 $14.99
Our last visit was to Tapiz, whose label Zolo is sold in the U.S. Owner Patricia Ortiz took us to the vineyards in the Uco Valley where we had a lunch of empanadas and Torrontés, Cabernet and Malbec. We tried but couldn’t beat the record of 24 empanadas set by a man from San Diego. The Zolo wines are among the best values from the country and have been selling well for over a year at ABC.
Zolo Malbec
9795-05 $11.99
Zolo Torrontés
9797-05 $11.99
Zolo Sauvignon Blanc
9796-05 $11.99
Zolo Cabernet Sauvignon
9787-05 $11.99
After Zolo, we were off to an even more remote ranch where we met Walter Sibilia and his family and rode horses into the mountains. Maybe I was getting into the groove but I survived this ride and the scenery was incredible. The next day we went whitewater rafting on the Mendoza River. It felt great after the horses.
The next morning it was back to the U.S. by way of Santiago, Chile. If you get a chance to visit Chile and Argentina, don’t miss it.
Some wines have limited quantities. Not all wines available in all stores. Prices, vintages, and availability subject to change.